Hot hot hot

Sorry, but that's the way it is...

Having seen the weather forecast for Britain, I feel more sheepish than Steve in saying this - but it's been a real scorcher here. Perfect for our free day in Wellington, which we chose to spend at the Pasifika (their spelling) Festival. Taking place in one of Wellington's central parks, this was a set of exhibitions and performances from the various Polynesian island groups. A real festival of exotic flavours, bright colours, drum rythms, melodious songs - and extremely sensuous Polynesian dancing. Never realised I had such a fine appreciation for culture...

Wellington is nice - a manageable city centre, great waterfront, and full of fine words like 'esplanade'. But tomorrow we must be on our way, heading up to Hastings and the Hawkes Bay area for more U3A and more wine.

Now, I know some of you think this journey is all fun and games for us. I have to tell you that it's full of challenges. We have to be really careful to avoid sunburn, for instance. And each day is a series of dilemmas: do we have breakfast in the motorhome, or go to the gourmet cafe? Seafood or meat for dinner? And what kind of wine? The decisions go on and on.

At least Steve is getting used to some of the niceties of football - eg when Norwich draw after being ahead it's all gloom and despondency, but when they draw after being behind it's smiles and optimism. Simple really.

HELLO from WELLINGTON

We wake up to a beautiful day in Wellington. It's sort of shocking to be in a big city, but we managed to wend our way to the campsite yesterday after the ferry crossing and here we are ready for our next U3A encounter.

Karen Palmer of Wellington U3A put together a fantastic gathering of 16 for a 'pot luck' buffet lunch at her lovely home high overlooking the harbour - wonderful view, a challenge for the RV to get up there! As usual we talked U3A. A great group. Lin, everywhere we go, they love the U3A pins and magnifiers. Wish I had brought more bookmarks and a U3A News to show them. You can see from the picture we're having fun.

The rest of the afternoon we spent at Te Papa Tongarewa, the National Museum of New Zealand. Along with a great heritage exhibition of both the Moari community and the settlers history, a big attraction is the giant squid that is preserved and on show. Something right out of 2o,ooo Leagues Under the Sea and scary. You would not want to meet up with it ... ever. In fact this is the only museum in the world that has one.

There's a concert in the Botanic Gardens tonight and I was hoping for classical or easy listening or even country and western, but instead it is pop - decided to give it a miss this time - must be getting old!

We decided to stay an extra day because tomorrow there is the 'Absolutely Positively Pasifika Festival' on at the waterfront Waitangi Park. Says there will be a kaleidoscope of Pacific island dance and song, traditional food and crafts. Can't wait.

PS The U3A group picture above includes Elizabeth Moles, Vivienne Rollo, David and Anke Atkins, Gaynor Stewart, Val Ferguson, Jane Page, Julia Sparks, our hostess Karen Palmer (front left), Michael and Joyce Foster, Rosemary and Stan Ralston, Bea Hamer, Lloyd and Joy Parkin. Can you picture me in the middle of everything?! (Picture, as usual, by official photographer Stew.)

PPS Mike: yes, we saw your note and will be sending an email to your friend. Don't think we'll be in her vicinity on our journey, though.

Sheep ahoy!

Steve reports on the inter-island crossing

There are several parts of this trip I've been dreading, but none more than today. Sheep are notoriously bad sea-travellers - in fact, I've heard we're often refrigerated for this kind of journey. Sounds strange, but I guess they know what they're doing.

Well, I was wrong to get my wool in a twist about it. We had smooth sailing, first through the Marlborough Sounds then the Cook Strait across to Wellington. I know Stew likes that Tasman, but he didn't even realise there was a gap between the islands so I'm not over-impressed.

So here we are in North Island - a new experience for me too. But I've heard some of the sheep here look almost exactly the same as in the South. Remarkable.

After the Marlborough wine tasting day, I know some of you are wondering whether I have a drink problem. Just to say that Stew's had a talk with me, man to sheep, and I think we're clear. I may give Hawkes Bay a miss.

That'll do for now. Baa til the next time.

It's a tough life

South Island complete

Some doubling-back today. From Motueka we returned to through Richmond and Nelson, but this time stuck to the north coast, ending in Picton for tomorrow's ferry. As usual, a couple of stops along the way. We never got to try Havelock's green mussels (next time, perhaps), but can recommend Pelorus Bridge for chicken & camembert pies and (as pictured) ice cream.

So that completes the South Island. We've driven a fraction under 2,000 miles; stayed at 13 campsites; and after heavy editing, saved just 600 photos. Lost count of breathtaking views (and dolphins). Beamer: of the 30 South Island scenic drives listed in the book you gave us for Christmas, we managed 25.

It's been a remarkably quick adjustment to this lifestyle, in part because New Zealand makes it so easy for travellers. Aside from the time difference, though, a number of things about being in the 'wrong' hemisphere remain a bit strange, eg Autumn means March-April, and you look for a home with a nice north-facing garden.

And I've cooked more dinners than in a year at home. Admittedly that's not actually saying much, but it's something to build on when we get home. In the meantime - North Island here we come...

Abel Tasman National Park

A great finish to the South Island

In the course of this trip, the group of people I've developed a special admiration for - apart from the inventors of the credit card - are the explorers like Abel Tasman and Captain Cook. Tasman discovered New Zealand in 1642, having literally journeyed into the unknown. Cook came a century or so later, using his brillant sea-faring and mapping skills to make sense of it. Impressive men, and more civilised than some of today's international adventurers.

The thing that used to astound me most about Cook was this. On returning from the hardships and deprivations of a round-the-world voyage, the first thing he did was: start planning the next one. Now I'm beginning to get a better understanding...

If Tasman was a special sort of bloke, he gave his name to a pretty special National Park which we visited today. You won't be surprised to hear that we opted for the coastal cruise rather than the inland trek, so we saw a stunning series of coves and beaches, with crystal-clear green water.

And, naturally, dolphins. Having scoured the world for them without success, we're now fighting them off.

Well, that's our last main stop in South Island - tomorrow we go to Picton in readiness for the inter-island crossing to Wellington. Meanwhile, nervously awaiting overnight news of Norwich v Southampton....

Haircuts, Motueka U3A and Beaches

Hi all, me again. Today it was our turn to get shorn. Yes, on a trip like this, these everyday things have to be seen to as well as the fun things. So, Stew off to the Barber Shop - complete with old-fashoned chair and a barber from Coventry, emigrated 40 years ago and still supports the team. I chose Bliss (the name seemed to bode well!) and was very pleased with the outcome.

We met Motueka U3A's merry 6 at Muses Cafe attached to the town's museum at 11 for coffee. It was 'Muffin Monday' so we all had free muffins as well. What a great idea - maybe U3As everywhere should have a 'muffin day' every month! Again we talked U3A and while their U3A is quite small, they approach their study groups much as we do - self-help on the topics their members want to study. Fun to hear of groups that we in SW Herts don't have . . . yet: geology, civilizations, geography. And of course the UK connections: Margot was married in St Albans!

Pictured from left to right: Cliff Bacon, Trish Huckle, Margot Grace, Malcolm Garrett (who organised the meeting), Barb, Gloria and Fred Wyatt.

Then, all too soon, it was on our way. This time to Kaiteriteri just 7 miles up the road, though with the twists and turns it took a half hour to get there - typical. But worth it. A beautiful golden beach full of holidaymakers. Had the best hamburger and great potato wedges with sour cream and sweet chili sauce - to our taste an unlikely combination, but delicious. So bliss in the hair and bliss on the beach - how perfect is that?

Note to 'Twilight' fans - found the first consignment of the paperback of 'Breaking Dawn' and am devouring it. Just can't figure out how she will resolve everything.

On the move

Back to sobriety and travelling

With the animals recovering from yesterday's excesses (more below), we're back to the serious journey. Further north from Blenheim today, including our first sight of the Marlborough Sounds - a reminder that our time in South Island is drawing to a close. But a left turn before that, taking us through Havelock ("the green mussel capital of the world"), the arts and shopping centre Nelson, Motueka (where we're now camped and will have another U3A encounter tomrrow) then some kind of tour of Abel Tasman National Park. Remember him? We'll retrace some of those steps on our way to Picton on Wednesday, for the ferry on Thursday to the North Island.

Meanwhile, I have to report an issue of crowding. Not outside the motorhome - where quite the opposite is true - but inside. Whenever we've seen a significant new animal on our travels over the years, we've generally bought a soft toy version of that animal. Not a problem on most trips, but we didn't quite take account of the number of animals specific to the southern hemisphere (blue penguin, sperm whale, dusky dolphin etc) - not to mention the sheep. Good thing the Moa is extinct...

Further afield, some (more) good news from the US. Our goddaughter Emily, studying Performing Arts at Syracuse University, just received her first professional review, for her role as Katisha in The Mikado. And it was a good one - well done, Em.

While we're not mentioning the sheep, Steve sends his thanks for the sympathetic comments (if that's what they were) yesterday. He's still groggy, but expects to be back on his hooves shortly. In the meantime he has a message for Lamb Chop: love your pedigree and style - but please give us more clues to your identity!

A day at the wineries

Despite warnings, I'm afraid Steve may have overdone it with the Sauvignon Blanc.

Or the Riesling. Or the Pinot Gris, or the Gewurztraminer. Understandable, given the generous tastings at a variety of exceptional wineries we toured today. Some of these wine producers are already well-known; others ought to be. For those with special interest, we visited Lawson's Dry Hills, Wither Hills, Villa Maria, Bladen and Herzog. All outstanding.

We bought various bottles, which I'm afraid will be consumed along our journey, plus a case to be delivered to Abbots Langley.

We're all now retiring to sleep it off. We're travelling somewhere tomorrow - who cares where?

Blenheim and another U3A encounter

Our U3A encounters have been such a pleasure. Here in Blenheim, Charles and Jan Riley presented us with afternoon tea in their garden on a perfect Summer's day. We were joined by Doug and Joyce Stafford, and Gavin and Elisabeth Kerr for great U3A exchanges. Their U3A is so much like SW Herts, with the ethos of self-help and shared learning in their study groups.

Apparently they have TWO wine appreciation groups, appropriate as we're now in the famous Marlborough wine-producing region. Many of you will have heard of Cloudy Bay - tomorrow we'll visit a variety of wineries and will regale you with stories (if we're still capable!). Stew is already planning a new study group, and our Blenheim U3A friends will be a welcome support - from afar, or even better if they come to our shores.

Pictured left to right: Doug & Joyce, Barb, Charles & Jan, Elizabeth & Gavin.

How did we get here? An easy drive today, due north - as much of our travel will be over the next two weeks - from Kaikoura to Blenheim. But another of those drives where you want to keep stopping to take pictures. The shining Pacific to our right, the colour of the Caribbean; constantly-changing mountains to our left. And for much of the time, not another car in sight.

Dolphins, dolphins everywhere

Time to re-write the book of Barb & Stew's dolphin experience

The most extraordinary day yet of an extraordinary journey. We'd have been happy to see a handful of dolphins - instead, we found ourselves for two hours in the midst of a pod of 200. Not only that, they clearly decided to make up for their cousins' previous reticence with us and put on a five-star show: jumping, twisting, somersaults and backflips. I'm sure I saw a triple Axel in there somewhere.

I AM NOT MAKING THIS UP (except the triple Axel).

While this was great for spectators, I'd already decided that these dolphins weren't going to get away and had signed up to swim from the boat. So another new experience - distinctly up close and personal, swimming in the middle of the dolphins. These Dusky dolphins are absolutely wild and natural, which made it truly wonderful and memorable: being accepted by these beautiful creatures (which are about the same size as us) in their own realm. A privilege indeed.

A very different direction next - up to Blenheim, for another U3A visit and a tour of the famous wineries of Marlborough. We'll let someone else do the driving for that one.

Princes of land and sea

Two thank-yous to begin today. First, to everyone who's commented on the blog: you keep us informed and amused, and it's a welcome link to home and friends. Second, special thanks to Holly for her input yesterday. This blog has no pretensions beyond a bit of light entertainment for winter days, but it's good to remind ourselves of bigger things, especially when - like Obama - they represent a beacon in turbulent times.

So, to the whales. A great trip out this morning in perfect conditions and - as you may have figured out from the picture - success in our quest. Two close sightings of a sperm whale, the largest and most impressive of the Kaikoura residents. Good that they're placid creatures, since our 50-foot boat was shorter, and considerably lighter, than the whale.

Each individual whale is known to the researchers; this one's name is Tiaki. Personally I'd have gone for Charles, since this is clearly a prince of whales. Sorry.

We then returned for a whale-like lunch of delicious blue cod (must recommend that to Delia when we get back). I guess the whale might have passed on the chips and salad, not to mention dessert.

Ever the optimists, we're booked on a specific trip tomorrow to see dolphins. But are they ready to see us?

Another U3A encounter - plus a word from Steve

What a great addition to this journey our U3A encounters are proving. This morning at 11am at the entrance to the Cathedral in Cathedral Square, Christchurch, we met Lee Morgan and Liz Taylor - all planned by email! We had coffee and talked U3A for two hours - all about theirs and ours. Although they do not have as many study groups as we tend to have, it is more on the shared-learning basis than University-based lectures that we found in the Dunedin U3A. As you can start to see, each U3A here is autonomous and sorts out what suits it best. Our next U3A meet-up is in Blenheim in a few days.

So here we are in Kaikoura and anticipating whale watching. I think Stew has been looking forward to this as far back as Greymouth and you have to go pretty far back on this blog to see how long ago that was!

However, I am thinking mostly of the inauguation of Obama. Lots of publicity of it here in the few snatches of TV that we see (mainly CNN last night in Christchurch). Sadly I will miss the speech live. It is actually the 20th today, here. The speech will be at 6am tomorrow, our time (and no CNN at the campsite). Oh well, I'm sure there will be repeats. I did get the Time special inauguation preview edition with his picture on the front. And I'm sure my American History study group will fill me in when I get back.

Steve here. Just to clarify a couple of things. First, I'm not against football (especially since it's back in vogue here, at least til the next Norwich game). I particularly admired that Chelsea manager Jose Merino. Second, the Inauguration. I'm known as a dyed-in-the-wool conservative, but you can't help being impressed by Baa-rak Obama.

PS I guess there's hope for us all, then!

Where we began

...back in Christchurch, heading north

A quick visit to Christchurch - and a hotel. Thought we'd treat ourselves to a night of home comforts before a meeting with local U3A people in the morning. But what do you do with all this space?

We've now driven 2,300 kilometers (around 1,500 miles), covering the centre and south of the South Island. Already plenty to reflect on, but no time for that yet. Next we go north, first to one of my treats: whale watching at Kaikoura. Also home to dolphins (they claim). Then it will be further north to the wineries of Marlborough and arts of Nelson, eventually taking the ferry on 29 Jan to the next adventure on North Island.

Stand by for new tales (and whale tails).

Distant cheers

Tonight, a simple, non-informative and self-indulgent blog.

What do you mean, 'what's new?'

It's to share the celebrations reverberating around the motorhome at the great news from 12,000 miles away: Norwich 4 Barnsley 0.

We had a fine day today, being shown the sights of the Waitaki valley by Libby McCone (the U3A person we met in Queenstown), then tea with Libby and her husband Jim. Great New Zealand hospitality. All this will put a spring in the step as we embark on a big week - a return to Christchurch, followed by Kaikoura for whale-watching and more. Watch this blog!

Penguins and other Beasts

In search of the yellow and blue

Another first for us last night - the chance of seeing penguins in the wild. No doubt you're well versed in the seventeen species of penguin; there are two in New Zealand, and we went in search of both.

First, the rare yellow-eyed penguin. We lined up (in wind and rain) on a clifftop in the hope of seeing them come onto the beach and make their way up the cliff to their nests. It was worth getting wet - saw two come out of the water, another on its nest in the bushes, then another sauntered up the cliff path and obliged us for photos (see above).

Then on to the smaller but more numerous blue penguins. This time a rocky shoreline where they come ashore in groups ('rafts') for safety, clambering onto the rocks (or rather, allowing themselves to be hurled onto them), climbing to safety, then crossing the road and moving to their nests in the bushes. A remarkable sight, and hugely entertaining.

I haven't said much recently about life with our motorhome, the Beast. Actually, we should re-name it; my big fears have been confounded. I fretted enormously about being able to drive the thing, and dealing with the chemical toilet; both have so far been pretty trouble-free (famous last words). The campsites are less spacious but better-equipped than expected (excellent showers etc), and it's kind of fun preparing meals for ourselves. We always have the get-out of going to a hotel, but haven't so far felt the need.

All in all, the Beast has clearly enhanced rather than detracted from the holiday.

A balancing act

I guess the italics are my signature now - that's Barb speaking.

With all the gorgeous scenery, the seascapes, mountains and gorges, I decided we needed a little balance in this journey with a visit to 'Olveston', the Theomin family's historic Dunedin home this morning.

The quotation on David Theomin's personal book plate, 'Let things be done shipshape and Bristol fashion' is ever present as you view his home built between 1904-06. As the brochure says, it is a masterpiece of modernity featuring central heating, an in-house telephone system, a shower and even heated towel rails!

The Theomins had two children, Edward who died in 1928 and Dorothy who died in 1966. It was Dorothy who bequeathed the house and all its contents to Dunedin town and eventually to a Trust who took it over. You walk in to see their house as if they had only stepped out for a moment. Every little thing just as it was. Absolutely fascinating. And I have to say a real treat.

However, our time was up in Dunedin, so on the road again. This time headed for Oamaru.

Along the way we stopped at Shag Point ( I know Steve would have something to say about that name, but I couldn't possibly comment). The draw was a colony of fur seals - lots of them on a craggy outcrop on rock with crashing waves to add drama. We watched as the young frolicked and the oldsters found the perfect spot for sleeping. And after lunch of sandwiches, Pringles and juice, I have to say this 'oldster' also took a short nap with a warm breeze wafting through the windows and the sound of waves and birds a lulling song.

Our next stop were the boulders at Moeraki. A weird thing you would think to stop for, but these boulders, strewn along the seashore below cliffs are perfectly round! And that is weird. There have been many explations for them, none proven however. They sort of look like huge billiard balls, half a tall as me, just waiting for some giant to picked them up for the next game - maybe at night when no one is watching.

Well, here we are in Oamaru - early for us at 4pm. We've just checked in at the campsite and booked to see the penguins tonight as they arrive back on shore - takes about an hour to see them all come in, so more stories tomorrow sports fans!

Speaking of sports, things always happen when we go away - how about Norwich then sacking Glenn Roeder! Hope springs eternal.

Sleep well, we will.

A tale of three oceans

...and albatrosses really exist

Onto our third ocean in five days. At the start of the week we looked west into the Tasman Sea; yesterday south into the Southern Ocean; today east into the Pacific. In truth they all look pretty similar, but I like the mythical quality of the idea.

They're all reminiscent of the North Sea in terms of temperature (bracing), but not in any other respect. They're the way oceans ought to be: wild, pure and blue. The purity accounts for the range of wildlife - penguins, seals, dolphins (allegedly) and more.

The 'more' also covers seabirds, including the albatross. From our base in Dunedin, we drove out on the Otago Peninsular this morning and visited the world's only mainland albatross nesting site. Fascinating, though the albatrosses clearly prefer colder and windier weather.

Something completely different this afternoon - a great train trip ito the mountains of the interior. NB Both of today's activities were recommmended to us by friends (including some of you) at home - many thanks.

On up to Oamaru tomorrow, and a chance to see the penguins close-up. Our whale-spotting record is as good as our dolphin record is poor; we'll see where penguins fit in.

Steve's update

Sheep's blog, 14 January 2009

Now I understand some of you are suffering fom sheep deprivation, so here's the latest from me.

First, I really appreciate the new followers from my first blog - actually, I'm a bit of a follower myself - but tell me more about yourselves, Baa-Baa and Lamb Chop!

To be honest, it hasn't been an easy week. First, sport. I can't tell you the gloom that fills the RV when they look for news about Norwich - shocking. I used to be a football fan myself, but I went off it when they started talking so much about Butcher - then, of course, Shearer.

The travel has been OK, though we haven't seen many sheep. Just 173,804 at my last count (I may have dozed off once or twice in there).

The other animals here talk about doing blogs. Henry the Lion seems keen, but says he doesn't yet have enough roar material.

Now arrived at Dunedin, so we've finished the south coast. It ought to be Duneatin' for Stew and Barb, but no sign of that yet.

I just told Stew he shouldn't take Norwich so serously. I think he told me to blog off, so I'd better go.

Bye-ee.

Time to catch your breath!

You know it is time for a little reflection when you can't remember what day it is, the date or where you were yesterday! Yes, it is Barb here just catching up. The campsite here in Invercargill is quiet, we have just had Stew's delicious spaghetti and all is well in the world. In fact, having been used to watching CNN constantly for every nuance of news at home, here we catch a headline on the BBC website and that's it! So you can really feel quite peaceful, sort of out of this world. Thus, not remembering the date etc.

Remember all the places we have been to here in New Zealand are places most holidaymakers spend a week or more enjoying, meanwhile we are off to the next treat down the road. So, today we ambled along the Southern Scenic Route and planned our catch-up day! We are staying at a series of campsites called Top Ten. Fabulous facilities - really great showers, areas to BBQ in, washing machines, cable internet connections, TV lounge - you get the picture. Today we tried out the washing machines and dryers.

But, first we discovered another Woolworths - hurray. Not quite Wegmans or Sainsburys, but getting there if you have been in the rainforests for the last few days. So of course we stocked up on English muffins, peanut butter and mince and wine for the spaghetti.

So, quite mellow, the washing up and the laundry done and ... yes, it is coming to me now, it is Tuesday where I am, the 13th of January and we have been away 19 days - amazing. Our blog can only give a glimpse of this wonderful journey.

PS. No picture again because the signal is not strong enough to download one onto the Blog, maybe tomorrow - we have lots we would have liked to show you. Also, we still cannot get emails on my U3A email address - don't know why, but in the meantime, please send emails to us on: stewart.lewis2@ntlworld.com we always can get them that way.

PPS Just when I was abandoning hope of the picture, here it is! And buoyed by the success, we've added pics to the Milford and Doubtful Sound blogs.

Sounds good

Just another regular day to report: breathtaking scenery, new experiences, fascinating knowledge.


This time in and around Doubtful Sound, another unspoilt wilderness. The whole area is, happily, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The fine weather allowed our boat to go out of the Sound into the Tasman Sea - letting us look left, where the next landfall is Antarctica, then turn round and see the view that faced Lieutenant James Cook (not a Captain then) in early 1770. Wary of the Sound's narrow channels and small islands, he rejected his colleagues' pleas to land and noted on his map 'Doubtful Harbour'. The name stuck.


There, who said this blog was just about sheep puns?


We kept up our luck with the weather, but also maintained a less enviable run. As one or two of you know, our dolphin-spotting record is not the best, and today was par for the course. There are dolphins in Doubtful Sound - no doubt about it - but they failed to appear today. Still, more chances later in the trip.


Tomorrow we bid a fond farewell to Fjordland and the Southern Alps, and head south-east to Invercargill. That will open the possibility of a trip to Stewart Island, depending on weather and our inclination. All this, and still wine, whales and beaches to come. (I really wanted to say wine, women and song - but maybe that can be arranged.)


Time I took a break from the blog - I'll let Barb and Steve fight for tomorrow's slot. Best wishes (and thanks for the comments), Stew.

Milford Sound

Pure nature in Fjordland



An early start today. OK, I confess it's a bit different getting up for the coach to Milford (followed by cruise) than for the 7.23 to Euston (followed by Northern Line). This retirement thing is kind of fun, at least until the credit card bills come in.



Just the drive to Milford is scenic enough - 100 photos before we even arrived at the Sound. Towering mountains, pure crystal-green streams and steaming waterfalls, each better than the last. Then the weather. It's changeable in this part of New Zealand - as you may have figured out - and wetter to the west of the mountains: Milford gets 300 inches of rain a year, that's an average of nearly an inch a day. So we weren't counting on full sunshine today...but that's exactly what we got. Glorious.



Milford Sound has a huge and deserved reputation. It's one of those places which, despite hundreds of visitors, maintains a pristine sense of nature (in that sense, reminiscent of Alaska). It's actually a fjord rather than a Sound - come on, we covered this in 4th Form Geography - carved by glaciers and now featuring dramatic walls of forest and rock rising straight from the water. And you can get wet when the boat sails in close to the waterfalls (very wet).



The road to and from Milford is carefully crafted between the mountains, except for the bit where they said 'what the hell', and hacked and blasted a tunnel through three-quarters of a mile of granite. (For avid readers and Simpsons fans, it's the Homer Tunnel.) The drive back would have been quicker if we hadn't run into a flock of sheep - one hazard you don't normally have to worry about on the M25.



Doubtful Sound tomorrow - more beauty, plus dolphins (apparently). Off now to re-charge the camera batteries, and our own. Sorry we can't upload pictures here.



PS Steve just wants to let his fans know he's working on his next message. Watch the next couple of days.

Another cheesy story

Queenstown to Te Anau, with diversions


A thoroughly pleasant day, a bit calmer after the dramatic swings of weather and activity in Queenstown. All exemplified by our first stop (or more accurately, detour) - Arrowtown, only 10 miles from Queenstown but a world away in pace and style. A good spot to reinforce our new ritual of mid-morning coffee and muffins.


Then to an LOTR (Lord Of The Rings) location, and the kind of impulse stop we now have the freedom to make -at a cheesery. I know, we'd never heard of one either, but it lived up to its name. We purchased (would you believe) some cheese, plus ingredients for my next pasta spectacular.


We're now 'hooked up' (ie gas and electricity connected) in the campsite at Te Anau - ready for tomorrow's big excursion to Milford Sound which is one of the world's famous beauty spots. Hard to shake off an image of Milford Haven (which isn't) but I'm sure tomorrow will cure me of that.


Meanwhile, another Saturday night of going to bed not knowing how Norwich got on. This time difference thing is very disconcerting...

And now the one you've been waiting for...

The Shotover Jet (or, Wet Wet Wet)

NB This is the second post today - see Barb's note below about our U3A encounter.

This one is to report that the Shotover Jet was ... absolutlely brilliant. It almost didn't happen, as our morning slot was cancelled because of the rain (I didn't entirely follow the logic since this was a white-water ride where we were guaranteed to get wet, but never mind). We got an afternoon slot in the sunshine, and it was fantastic - especially the 360-degree turns in the rapids. Barb was a great sport, and it only took 20 minutes to prise her hands off the safety bar when we finished.

Great official pictures to show when we get home; this will have to do in the meantime.

On to Te Anau in the morning, for the highly-anticipated trips to the fjords Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound. Scenic wonders and dolphins promised (as well as homicidal sandflies). That's after my first attempts to empty the chemical toilet - will report anything that's appropriate for a family audience.

PS We're having great difficulty accessing Barb's U3A email. If you've sent us something, we may not be able to pick it up until we're back in Christchurch on 20 Jan. In case of anything urgent, please re-send to stewart.lewis2@ntlworld.com (which we can pick up more easily).

A U3A Encounter

Hi all, it's me again. Hard to get a word in edgewise what with the blogger fanatic Stew, and Steve hot on his heels. Everybody wants a word!

Tonight was our first encounter with New Zealand U3A people. Dr. Graham Mortimer is the Chairman of Dunedin U3A with some 500 members, much like my own SW Herts U3A. He and his wife Claire had invited us for dinner. So now my questions start - what to wear? be back in time to take a shower before we go, take a bottle of wine or not? You can imagine!

6.15 and the taxi arrives to take us to the address we have. Up and up the side of the steep hill we go, overlooking Queenstown, Lake Wakatipu and majestic mountains in the background. And as we get out of the taxi, we are greeted by Graham and Claire as if they have known us all their life. What a wonderful feeling feeling to meet U3Aers that make you feel so 'at home'.

Claire's sister Libby and husband Jim also joined us. Libby has just started up a new U3A just north of Dunedin so there was much exchange on how we all operated.

New Zealand U3As are funded by their Universities. This system helps the Universities to demonstrate community support.

And they do not have study groups that we would recognise. It is more a lecture series that you sign up to. And social activities are mostly through other organisations. But, like us, each U3A is autonomous, so it will be interesting to see how each one operates.

What a great dinner - lamb, new potatoes, green salad and fresh berries and whipped cream.

A feast for the campers! What a great start to our New Zealand U3A encounters.

Pictured from left to right: Libby, Graham, Claire, Jim, Barb

Summer in Queenstown

Activities, today and tomorrow

With sympathy to those of you freezing at home, it's a beautiful Summer day here in Queenstown. And we're into activities. Today the Lake Wakatipu cruise on the Steamship Earnslaw (the one 'old fogey' activity, so we signed up right away), and the gondola ride for a panorama over Queenstown and its surrounding lakes (definitely teal) and mountains (called The Remarkables, with good reason). Barb pictured on the viewing platform.

Tomorrow we step it up with the Shotover Jet (see yesterday's blog). We'll let you know about the health benefits.

U3As here tend not to meet in January. However, it was suggested we contact the Chair of Dunedin U3A, Dr Graham Mortimer, at his summer home here. We did, and he and his wife have invited us to dinner tonight. Very nice, though we've kind of forgotten how to socialise. Time for a clean shirt, I guess.

We'll report back tomorrow.

Misty mountains and shining lakes

From ponchos to tee-shirts

Apologies for Steve's unauthorised blog yesterday. Don't know where he gets that humour.

He was right about one thing. The rain that began at noon yesterday finally stopped at 2pm today. It washed out this morning's glacier views, but made the drive through mountains and forests all the more atmospheric. And it cleared into glorious sunshine for the last part of today's journey, into Queenstown alongside huge lakes of intense green-blue (I say aquamarine, Barb says teal - take your pick). Incredible scenery. Barbara/Brian - thanks for your advice about the Cardrona valley route (including roadside lupins of amazing blue, pink, yellow and magenta).

Also a huge thanks to Barb's sister Nancy for the ponchos (as modelled above) - they saved the day.

We'll stay three days in Queenstown - a tourist centre famous for activities. We're agreed about the Lake Cruise (yes) and the bungy (no), but divided about the Shotover Jet, a jetboat ride through the rapids. Its literature focusses on the health benefits of being really scared, which I'm not sure is quite the right marketing strategy - but I'm keen, so we'll see.

Some of the many things to admire about New Zealand: the universal friendliness of the people, the ratio of road space to vehicles, and flat white coffee.

Steve apologises for the lack of a photo yesterday - where the internet signal is weak (as here too) it's sometimes hard to upload a picture. Those of you who appreciate Steve's writing - you know who you are - might look out for future offerings from our other companions, the lion (Henry) and the rhino (Spearmint). I'm considering investing in another sheep, if only for the potential blog title Two sheep; perchance to dream? But maybe not.

A Sheep speaks

Sheep's blog, 6 Jan



Steve here. Let me tell you some of the real story.



Now, I'm not going to bleat on about it but Stew's driving isn't quite what you've heard. He's alright going forward, but when he tries to reverse - well, my head's buried in my hooves. It's enough to make your hair curl.



And it's raining. I mean real, solid rain. Why do you think New Zealand's so green? They tell me it's going to improve, but they can't pull the wool over my eyes.



At least Stew's spaghetti dish was impressive. And it makes a nice change - usually they've been coming back from restaurants raving about the slow-cooked lamb shanks. Not a happy thought.



I'll keep you posted. It's good to think that here, sheep may safely blog.



Baa for now. Yours, Steve.

Coast to Coast

Forests, mountains and beaches

Today's mission accomplished - made it to the West coast and the Tasman Sea. I reckon we'd be taught a lot more about Abel Tasman if he was English instead of Dutch. He mapped much of Australia and New Zealand a hundred years before Captain Cook, and rightly has a sea and an island named after him - Tasmania - as well as one of the great national parks of NZ (which we'll be visiting in due course).

Enough lecture. Today's journey was as spectacular as the destination. Emerald forests, mountains, deep gorges and wide valleys with rushing turquoise rivers - think Lord of the Rings. Pretty awesome (especially for someone who grew up in Norfolk).

For those with special interest/knowledge, we're now at Greymouth - heading down the coast tomorrow to Franz Josef glacier then eventually Queenstown and Fjordland. Bound to meet Aragorn and Legolas somewhere in there.

Tonight's adventure will be making dinner in the RV. We have spaghetti, interesting sauce ingredients and a good bottle of red, so we can't go too far wrong - can we?

PS The answer to the big question ("how many more days is he going to wear that shirt?") is: not many, but hey, this is camping.

PPS Anonymous: if you're still following, we rented the RV from South Island Travel in Christchurch - terrific people. www.southislandtravel.com

A bit of hot and cold and hot

Barb's turn again. Let me start out by thanking all of you for posting comments - it is like getting letters from home when you are far away and encourages us to keep on writing from this side!

So to the HOT.

Two things to note: Stew has taken to driving the RV and this blogging thing like a duck to water. Thank goodness - you should have seen the switchbacks and steep mountain 'scenic ' roads we travelled on the first day. Unbelievable - the Amalfi Coast drive has nothing on this. And he got us to Akaroa safe and sound. After that anything is possible.

And as for blogging, I think he is making up his evening's blog as we go along and can't wait to get it published. And with the different connections even manages to get the pictures to work when we are in quite remote places. Alan (Bannister), you don't know what you started!

Then the COLD.

It was 18 degrees yesterday after being 28 degrees the day before - bracing. Time for fleece.

The weather turns on a dime over here. Glad of the 'layers' advice. Not to mention the downpour in Akaroa just as we were about to leave The Giant's House. We called the only taxi in town to get us back to campsite and SHE took us literally to our doorstep on site - saved the day.

And now the HOT again.

Not the weather - an agreeable 24 degrees, -but the hot springs here in Hanmer Springs: 9 open air thermal pools, 3 sulphur pools and a 25 metre freshwater heated pool to name but a few of the treats. We tried several including one of 40 degrees. Knockout!

Enough for tonight, I'm sleepy!

Rain, smoke alarms and Steve

Getting used to it all (gradually)

A slightly calmer day, unpacking and familiarising ourselves with the Beast and our new lifestyle. And taking in Akaroa (Felicity: thanks for the tip about the Giant's House).

Today's triumphs: making breakfast (yes, I know it doesn't sound much, but..); topping up the mobile phone; and this - wireless internet up and working, in spite of the 'easy instructions'.

Today's challenges: an over-zealous smoke alarm (we were level on points after six rounds, but I finally subdued it); the length of the bed (don't ask); and a nasty turn in the weather (now monsoon-like rain).

Tomorrow we set off North and West, to the mountains - headed for the wild West coast via, irrestistibly, the Lewis Pass. Challenges ahead, but we're helped by the reassuring presence of our new travelling companion Steve (pictured). Seems he knows a thing or two about New Zealand; he'll share his observations in a later blog.

Finally, thanks for the messages and suggestions (all polite, so far). Please keep them coming - in this case, it's great to know we're being followed.

We're off!

Just us now - Barb, Stew and our motorhome (henceforth to be known as The Beast)

No more nice hotels, CNN and room service. We're ready for the open road, if it's ready for us.

Actually, not so open road. Having decided our first day would be a gentle acclimatisation on broad, flat highways, we managed to get onto 2 hours of precipitous mountain roads. That's the last time I get persuaded to follow the 'scenic route'!

However, it's taken us to our first campsite, overlooking the picturesque Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula. Not too far from where we started, according to the map - but it feels like an Odyssey to us. One giant step for Lewiskind.

We'll try to keep you up-to-date. Our IT skills (or at least perseverance) have so far surpassed expectations. A few pieces of jargon to watch out for:

RV - our motorhome (recreational vehicle)

Woolworths - in this case a major grocery store (and thankfully still in business)

***@! - I'm sure that's how I was supposed to fix the toilet (or, Norwich lost again)