The end of the road

Or, courtesy of Beamer, epi-blog

Stew:

Well, we've handed back the motorhome and fly out of New Zealand tomorrow morning. We still think of it as 'our' motorhome, but hope it will now offer others some of the wonderful adventures we've enjoyed.

We don't fly directly home, but as we leave New Zealand it's time to close the blog - though like the motorhome, it's hard to imagine daily life without it. Special thanks again to Alan Bannister for setting up the blog, and to everyone who's shared our journey through it. Hope we've brought a little entertainment to you. Apologies for everything there's been too much, or too little, of for your taste.

I was going to apologise to those who are turned off by football references or atrocious humour, but I guess they probably left us some time ago. At least they were spared the lawn moa.

What makes New Zealand so special for this kind of journey? Perhaps it's the unique combination of ingredients: scenery, climate, facilities, people. If one incident sums it up for me, it's the town where I returned to the motorhome after we'd exceeded our parking meter time. The traffic warden was there, surveying our illegal vehicle. I explained that yes, we'd exceeded our time and would actually like a few more minutes. He smiled, said it was fine ("good as gold") and wished us a happy rest of our holiday. What a great country.

Barb:

Yes, it has been quite a journey. To think up such a trip is one thing, to actually do it another! My thanks go to all of you who took our journey with us. This blog was a big postcard to you. To those who had already been to New Zealand, I hope you re-lived it; to those who have not been here, I hope you had fun vicariously with us as we went along. And to our new U3A friends here in New Zealand, thanks for your welcome and cameraderie.

So from Aotearoa and in fine New Zealand fashion, Pokarekare Ana - Now is the Hour When We Must Say Goodbye. This adventure will be forever with us.

Full Circle

This time we went straight rather than left, and back to Christchurch - our last campsite before returning the motorhome tomorrow. Tonight's task is packing, with two things hard to grasp: (i) how the seven weeks have disappeared and (ii) how many souvenirs we've accumulated. Even the extra piece of luggage, bought along the way 'just in case', isn't enough.

Today's weather has been miserable - mist, low clouds and rain, as if New Zealand were as sad at our impending departure as we are. We're ready to be heading home, and our football team clearly needs us, but this has been a journey which exceeded every expectation. We'll try to summarise things in our final blog tomorrow, but it won't be easy.

One thing's for sure: writing the blog, and knowing one or two of our friends out there were reading it, has been a big part of the fun.

Meanwhle back to eating up our foodstuffs, accompanied by one of the world's great white wines in a couple of plastic cups. Barb and Stew's camping style exemplified...

New South Whales

OK, that's the last Wales/whales pun...maybe.

The second whale trip was great. That's partly because each whale watch is different - a bit like football matches, but with less chance of disappointment. And also because this was an action-packed trip: seven whales (the average is one-two), including the rare sight of two sperm whales together and a tail-slapping demonstration. The whales are less frisky than the dolphins, but a sight easier to photograph.

Which left Barb a peaceful afternoon to read in the sun, so we both had a good time.

Starting to think about our return home, though it's still a little way away. We hand back the motorhome on Saturday, fly to Singapore on Sunday, then have a few days at an island resort before flying to London overnight 28 Feb-1 Mar.

Steve is planning his lecture tour...

Kaikoura revisited

The hard part of today was done early: getting to the ferry terminal for our check-in. Another smooth crossing - we've been lucky with that, as with much else - saw us in Picton, South Island by lunchtime.

So we pressed on down the coast, back to one of our favourite haunts, Kaikoura. It's the base for the whale and dolphin excursions, and a seafood centre (though the signs are pretty subtle, as above). It'll be a test of our will-power, to resist the restaurants and eat up the food stocks in the motorhome as we should.

We're here tomrrow, so a dilemma: if we do another whale/dolphin trip, will it another thrill or an anti-climax? We've decided to go separate ways: I can't resist another look at the whales, while Barb argues with impeccable logic that when you've seen one whale, you've sort of seen them all, so she'll stay and catch up on some reading.

We're getting ever nearer Christchurch and the time on Saturday when - hard as it is to believe - we'll be handing back the keys to the motorhome.

Farewell North Island

We're now camped just outside Wellington, in the fine city of Lower Hutt (the one with the Esplanade). Tomorrow at 7am we check in for the ferry, taking us back to Picton in South Isalnd and another step towards returning the motorhome in Christchurch.

Today was in many ways a typical travel day. After a light breakfast in the RV, we put some miles behind us then looked for a good spot for mid-morning coffee and muffins. This time we found an outstanding one (couldn't resist the sign, above), run by an exile from the East End of London.

For better or worse, she recommneded the clothes stores in the next-but-one town; we duly stopped and gave them some business.

Hope you've enjoyed the photos on our blog. We have some good ones, but there are other pictures we'd have loved to add if we could have stopped - sudden vistas from twists in the mountain roads, distinctive signs by the roadside, and yesterday's golf course full of sheep.

Speaking of which, Steve is not in best grace here. Not only has he upset poor Lamb Chop, it now seems he's lavished so much on Agnes that he's hit the limit on his Baaclaycard. Oh dear.

Making tracks

Travel update

These few days are about covering the ground, as we head for Wellington and the return ferry to South Island on Wednesday morning. So we're motoring south, this time keeping to the western part of the island (having come up the eastern side).

Waitomo and its caves are about halfway up North Island. Today's journey has taken us south-west, almost to New Plymouth before turning south and finishing in Wanganui.

A rainy day was no problem for the driving, but meant we again missed seeing a major mountain. In South Island we were thwarted by the weather from seeing the glaciers and Mount Cook; this time it's Mount Taranaki that was lost in the clouds. Oh, well..

By the way, an interesting part of yesterday's trip was seeing some skeletons of animals that died in the caves - including a moa. A large flightless bird, the moa became extinct around 500 years ago; in its day, though, there were several different types. I'm sure there was a grass-eating one, which we could call ... the lawn moa.

On that note I should probably finish.

Secrets of caves, glow-worms and sheep

Planning this week's itinerary, it looked as if we'd have to miss out on one recommended thing: the glow-worm caves of Waitomo. Sure, one or two people had strongly advised us to see them - but they're just worms, right?

Well, no. Because of our good progress yesterday we DID manage to fit in a visit, and thank goodness we did. We're not the most intrepid cave explorers - but these are stunningly beautiful, as you glide in a boat through a profound darkness illuminated only by the thousands of light specks created by the glow-worms. A different world, and a memorable one.

Again, we chose rightly to join a specialist tour that took us to slightly more remote caves and gave our small group a more personal touch. These are the caves chosen for David Attenborough's 'Life on Earth' series.

Now, Lamb Chop. Look, I'm very sorry but you only have yourself to blame. You had Steve captivated by your messages, but where was the follow-up? No promises to meet, no contact details - in short, no commitment. Meanwhile Agnes is here in the flesh, Steve says she made sheep's eyes at him, and - well, you know how it is.

You still have a chance, but you need to think carefully about this relationship. Some reading may help - you might try "Rams are from Mars, ewes are from Venus". Don't give up.

HAPPY VALENTINE'S DAY!

My sister Holly has a bumper sticker on her car that says 'God Bless Everyone, No Exceptions'. I quite like that thought and so here are all the animals in this camper van (and as you can see there are a few more that have been gathered along the way - another sheep, Agnes, and finally a kiwi) wishing all of you that have followed this blog a HAPPY VALENTINE'S DAY.

Mostly we write this blog at our campsite and hope there is a strong enough signal to upload a photo - you cannot imagine how we have coaxed and cajoled and waited patiently for the connection to comply. So far, so good.

This time I am sitting in the RV at a motorway service station. It is raining out, but the signal seems strong, so we thought we better blog from here. Our campsite tonight is a little out of the way - Port Waikato ( look that one up on your maps! ) and may not have much of a signal. First time in a motorway service station on this journey. They are pretty much the same wherever you are.

However, the big news is we are heading south. We've made the big turn. So get out your John Denver as you read this and let those country roads take us home.

Down to the sea again

Having survived my dinner, we took to the water again today - this time in a catamaran for an all-day sail around the Bay of Islands. The alternative is a powerboat ("The Excitor") that straps you in and whisks you around the bay; regular readers will know I'm not averse to jetboats, but the more sedate approach seemed right for today.

And it was. For a description of the water, coves, beaches etc, I refer you to our earlier blogs - this was more of the same, but not something you ever tire of. Barbecue lunch was cooked on board as we swam at one of the beaches; sometimes sausages are just perfect.

And dolphins. Now the things just won't leave us alone - this time a group of bottlenose (the largest) jumping, flapping and generally frolicking around us. Not quite as acrobatic as their dusky counterparts at Kaikoura, but a close second.

One thing about jumping dolphins is that you'll have to take our word for it. Their jumps are frequent and spectacular, but also fast and unpredictable - in other words, easy to see but difficult (and I mean VERY difficult) to photograph. Lots of near misses.

Not that we should complain about our dolphins. Bill Gates was recently here, hired the biggest boat for a day to watch the dolphins - and saw none. I sometimes wonder if those dolphins know more than they're letting on...

Bay of Islands was the furthest point north in our journey. Tomorrow we start to head south, though I supect we'll enjoy a few more diversions along the way.

An historic birthday

Whatever we do for future birthdays, there probably won't be one quite like this. As planned, we took the ferry across Bay of Islands to a special place in New Zealand's history, the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.

Our first good decision was signing up for a guided tour; our small group (an Australian couple, a Scotsman and ourselves) was guided by a young Maori, keen to fill in the context of the treaty and give a balanced account of its consequences.

Out of that context emerges another good guy. The British bigwig who arrived in to sign the treaty and get things named after him was Captain William Hobson, but much of the groundwork was laid by James Busby, the 'British Resident' sent in 1833 to restore order and create harmonious relations with the local Maori. Despite his integrity and talents - or perhaps because of them - he enjoyed pitiful support from his masters. Nonetheless he gained the respect of the Maori chiefs, achieved his goals and established a level of trust which made the eventual treaty possible. So James Busby is added to our list of 'should be more appreciated'.

By the way, if any of our new Kiwi friends is reading this and wants to improve my (undoubtedly superficial) account, please feel free to.

Over the past few days we've splashed out on some great gourmet dinners: steak, vension and seafood, enjoyed with fine wines, first-class service and wonderful views. Not tonight. Barb's reward for having a birthday, whether she likes it or not, is another of Stew's spaghetti dinners in the motorhome. To be fair, let's give proper credit to my cooking. It's only one basic dish, but of course each version has subtle variations - some of them intentional. Barb here - Stew's spaghetti is great any day, but on my birthday, the best!

An all-day sailing tour tomorrow, visiting some the Bay's famous secluded islands and maybe some more dolphins. Report on dinner, dolphins and other 'd's tomorrow.

PS. It is also the bicentennial anniversary of Lincoln's birth - a great article in Time this week about him and how current his views on the economy are today. Well worth the read.

A room with a view

'Russell' probably has a different connotation for everyone, depending on the individual(s) of that name who've been significant to us.

Now we have another set to add. We've arrived at 'Romantic Russell' in the Bay of Islands, and our campsite certainly helps it live up to its billing. Perched above the town, we have a panoramic view out across the bay - and a quiet beach ten minutes the other way. Not a bad spot for Barb's birthday tomorrow.

In the New Zealand context, Russell has two distinctive connotations: history and scenery. It was the cradle of colonial New Zealand, and still has the oldest church (from 1836). Later in that century it became lawless and was christened - if that's the word - 'the Hell-hole of the Pacific'. For better or worse it's calmed down a bit since then, and now caters to the gentler end of the tourist market (ie us). Across the bay also lies the place we'll visit tomorrow - Waitangi, the scene of the 1840 treaty between the Maori and settlers. Whatever one's view of its motivations and consequences, it is hugely significant to the development of New Zealand and has repercussions to the present day.

We drove pretty determinedly to get here, stopping only for breakfast at the New Zealand Honey Centre. Otherwise we ignored distractions, even portentious signs such as LAST CHEESE FOR MILES (it was true).

Bay of Islands is also known for its eating and beautiful scenery. We'll try to do justice to both over the next couple of days.

Rain stops (some) play

Now here's a familiar experience. If there's one thing I know from growing up in Great Yarmouth, it's the feel of a seaside resort, at the height of the season, in the rain.

That's what we've had most of today. Having decided to spare the motorhome (and its driver) another bout of driving in the city, we stayed today at our campsite in Takapuna Beach, just north of Auckland. So it's been a quiet day, enjoying the cafes (a cut above Yarmouth's) and dodging the showers...

...until about an hour ago (6pm), when the sun broke through. Just in time, though we didn't know it, for an illustration of New Zealand competitive sport. The beach filled with people of all ages, ready to compete in the latest of the North Shore Series: a set of swimming, rowing and running races. Very organised, very competitive, very impressive. No wonder New Zealand punches above its weight in international sport.

A major drive tomorrow, up to the Bay of Islands for 3-4 days of relaxation and beaches. Our swimming will definitely be of the non-competitive kind, though...

Auckland! We made it.

Auckland seemed so far away. Days, weeks, miles, kilometres - however you measured it, Auckland seemed a long way away, but we made it to Howick U3A this morning for their General Meeting at 9.30 - just about the same time as my own SW Herts U3A February's General Meeting, except of course you all are a day behind us.

We walked in as all the preparations for the meeting were taking place at the Nixon Park Community Centre, but we could have been at VUE, as we signed in for our name tags as guests (all the members had their names on a lanyard around their necks). Rod, you will appreciate their sound man was busy getting the audio just right and Alan, one member had a film of a trip that would be part of the programme - next stop Pearl and Dean?

Then there was the speaker: John Cheah, Civil Engineer on "UKU Sustainable Earth-fibre Housing". A terrific talk for anyone interested in sustainable living. You can find out more about his project and others at www.shac.org.nz or email John at: jcne242@@aucklanduni.ac.nz . Another sustainable housing project is at http://www.earthsong.org.nz/

A big thanks to Les Berridge, their newletter editor, who through emails kept us on track to get there.

Then the afternoon was spent with John Stewart of Remuera U3A and Alex Lanning of Ponsonby U3A and the Auckland network Secretary. John was instrumental in getting U3As off the ground in the early days in Auckland. We had a great time discussing the challenges and opportunities for our U3A movement as we go forward. Many thanks, John and Alex. Our discussions will continue; there is never enough time in one sitting.

Photos: the Committee at Howick U3A, and Alex, Barb and John.

Judge a man by his laundry

We're now encamped on the outskirts of Auckland, on - sorry about this - the hottest day of the year. But we have a great shady spot to recover from the shock of Norwich's home defeat to Bristol City (not to mention the cricket).

We loved the Coromandel, even on our short visit. I'd been trying the find the right word to describe the water, and Barb came up with it: iridescent. Definitely.

It's Sunday of Waitangi weekend here, a holiday to commemorate the treaty between the settlers and native Maori (although the treaty itself continues to be controversial). It's the equivalent of our August Bank Holiday in terms of activity, so we tried to beat the main rush back to Auckland.

After the boat trip, yesterday was laundry day. I wonder if the laundry mix reflects our evolving state of mind along this journey. Early on, we were washing smart casual shirts and long trousers. Now it's teeshirts and shorts - a clear relaxation of something.

Contrary to some of your comments, I haven't yet become a trucker, redneck or Maori warrier. But maybe a touch in that direction.

A thought for the day (especially endorsed by Steve): "Democracy has to be something more than two wolves and a sheep deciding what to have for dinner"

Seashores and sunsets

Underlining yesterday's theme, the settings of our last two days could hardly be more different. You wouldn't have wanted to go near the 98-degree C sulphur ponds of Hell's Gate (I liked the management notice that 'Anyone throwing stones into the sulphur ponds will be asked to retrieve them'), while today's water was nigh-on irresistible.

We've tried to make the most of each of our stops, and we probably succeeded again today - taking a boat trip around the Coromandel coast, including the famous Cathedral Cove. Beautiful beaches, unique rock formations and clear water. Plenty of opportunity for photos (taken up by both of us) and snorkelling (taken up by one).

This is clearly a holiday area. We took the boat from Whitianga, which has a permanent population of 5,000 and a summer one of 35,000.

Our campsite is by the beach this time, facing west, and we've had two great sunsets. Like dolphins, sunsets are not something we've previous had much luck seeing. A tough choice for tonight's picture between the beaches and sunsets, but the latter just wins out.

On to another different setting tomorrow: the big city Auckland. Some special U3A appointments there on Monday, then we'll push on further north, trying to ignore the reality that our adventure must end before too long.

Another change of scene

Hell to Heaven

Day 36 of the motorhome journey (hard to believe) brings us to the beautiful Coromandel Peninsula, and specifically to our campsite at Shelly Beach, just north of Coromandel town.

Before that, however, a final geo-thermal stop on our way out of Rotorua: Hell's Gate, so named by George Bernard Shaw when he vsitied in 1904. Not surprising that the name stuck - it's a landscape of boiling sulphur ponds, bubbling jet-black craters and mini mud volcanos, like some chemistry experiment gone horribly wrong. Half-expected Mr Hyde to emerge from the steam.

Being considerable braver than me, Barb had a mud facial, which I'm told was excellent.

We haven't mentioned the orchards which have lined our route for the last few days, supplemented today by Kiwi fruit trees. Kiwi fruit is delicious, and unusual among my favourite things in actually being good for you.

As so often, the day's drive has taken us to a completely different set of landscape and activities. This is beach country, a chance to swim, relax, and clear the smell of sulphur out of our lungs. Surely, nowhere else can match New Zealand's range of natural environments in such a small radius.

Beach report tomrrow.

Maori culture and Spa treatments

I had been looking forward to Rotorua. Two things caught my attention in all the tourist information we had - Te Puia (Maori centre) and the Polynesian Spa. We booked Te Puia for their evening programme Te Po - cultural storytelling, entertainment and Maori kai (indigenous food).

It started in Te Heketanga-a Rangi (The Heavenly Origins), a space with twelve monumental carvings, each representing a Maori deity. We then assembled at the waharoa (gateway) of the traditional marae for an authentic Maori welcome. This is a formal ceremony complete with a whaikorero (welcome speech).

After taking off our shoes, we entered the marae for the entertainment. Beautiful waiata (songs), the world-renowned haka (challenge) and the elegant poi dance. Audience participation was hilarious as the men attempted the haka (I think Stew's put on a bit of weight - what do you think?)

A delicious dinner buffet allowed us a chance to taste the time-honoured hangi (earth oven cooked meal) using the geothermals right under our feet!

Finally the evening finished after dessert with a shuttle to the amazing Pohutu geyser in the moonlight. A memorable New Zealand night.

The Polynesian Spa was this morning's treat. Four hot mineral rock pools in the most peaceful setting. And I also indulged in one of the fabulous body massages of coconut oil. WOW, worth waiting for these 2,500 miles.

PS A clarification of my earlier comments about U3A funding. After our first meeting (with the Chairman of Dunedin U3A) I said that New Zealand U3As are funded by their universities. In fact, they have all kinds of funding arrangements, reflecting their autonomy. Dunedin U3A itself is partially funded by the University of Otago from its Continuing Education budget

And now for something completely different

Geysers and moonscapes

Apologies for recent digs about weather differences - enough said on that, I think.

Another fascinating new experience to report today. Between Taupo and Rotorua lies a series of geo-thermal sites; we spent the morning at one of them, Wai-O-Tapu.

If you're in a geo-thermal area - which is a nice way of saying you're standing on a live volcano - things are a bit different from normal. Instead of grey, rocks are lime-green, orange, yellow and purple. You can see, and hear, mud boiling below you. Steam hisses everywhere, geysers erupt. And an interesting mix of smells fills the air.

Altogether it's a strange and beautiful experience.

As is hearing that Norwich scored three goals away...

Finishing now, because we're off to another event we've been looking forward to - a top-rated Maori culture show at Te Puia. Will report tomorrow....

From sea to shining lake

Actually, this a sequel to yesterday's blog. But we thought it could have its own title - unlike Shakespeare, who couldn't come up with anything better than Henry IV Part 2. No imagination, that was his trouble.

Unlike the Polynesian dancers...

Where was I? Oh yes, we travelled today from Hastings north-east up to Lake Taupo, the largest inland body of water in Australasia. Our main detour was to Napier, famous for its Art Deco architecture.

Yesterday we had parallel activties; I took a final wine tour while Barb attended the U3A study group she reported last night. With apologies to those uninterested in the subject, let me dust off my bullet-point summary skills for an overvew of our NZ wine experience:

. the standard of the wine is consistently terrific - it deserves a bigger space on our wine shelves

. the wineries are great to visit. Being relatively new, they often have real family stories and characters (such as Steve at Moana Park, pictured)

. the most striking wines were often a surprise. Marlborough is famous for Sauvignon Blanc, but some of the Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminers are superb. Hawke's Bay is producing some stonking reds

The tour was enlivened by an entertaining and knowledgeable guide. I think I'd also like her friend, whose two lambs are called Roast and Freezer.

Speaking of which, we're aware that many of you are suffering - southern England under a foot of snow, travel chaos etc. Let us assure you that we understand. Yesterday the temperature here dropped so much that we thought about putting on LONG-SLEEVED SHIRTS.

Tomorrow, on to the strange geo-thermal landscapes and Maori culture of Rotorua. Stay with us.

Henry IV Part 1

Hi All. With a title like that, it can only mean another U3A encounter! At quite short notice we found that we might be able to meet up with the U3As of the Hawke's Bay area. The best way was to invite them for coffee at our campsite in Hastings - our first entertaining of this journey. We were so pleased that all three U3As (Hastings, Taradale, Havelock North) could be represented. Coffee was duly made in the RV, and chocolate chip cookies completed elevenses as U3A talk commenced at the picnic table! We could have been anywhere in the U3A world discussing similiar challenges of getting study group leaders or starting new U3As or their interest in our Third Age Trust umbrella organisation. I have enjoyed these discussions immensely and will keep in touch with all these new friends.

Margery Adcock had also invited me to a study group that afternoon called 'Wonder of Words'. It was just like going to a study group at home with 18 of us sitting in Molly Sadler's house for the topic of Henry IV Part 1. Never having studied this play, I learned a lot and was sad that I was not going to be there for the next instalment!

While I was at the study group, Stew was on another wine tour. This is the last wine region on our trip; Stew says he'll do an executive summary (old habits die hard) tomorrow.

Margery had also invited us for dinner. It was delicious - such a nice treat for us campers. Molly was also at dinner so the U3A talk continued. Thank you one and all Hawke's Bay U3Aers for a great day.

PS Pictured above, left to right: Peter Newby, Norris Kenwright, Dale Jackson, Margery Adcock, Rita Kenwright, Barb. Special thanks also to Dale for the fruit loaf!

Travellers' plans

This was the day that required precision planning. A hefty drive from Wellington up to Hastings, but also a special detour I was keen to take - to the relatively small but important wine area Martinborough, and specifically the Ata Rangi winery as recommended by my work colleague (and professional Kiwi) Anne.

Wineries open at 10am, and the detour was feasible if we were on its doorstep as it opened. So we were...only to find this one opens at noon. Clearly we needed to form a new plan, ideally over coffee and muffins at one of the town cafes - by which time it was apparent that we should stay around until 12 and visit the winery.

Note to Anne, if you're reading: you were right. A tasting confirmed, and we'll give the Celebre some proper attention with my gourmet spaghetti bolognese tonight. (Yes, it's true I can only cook one thing, but it's good.)

A quick look back and forward over our itinerary. We've now been away from home for five weeks (hope I turned that oven off), and the first part of our holiday in Singapore seems as distant as Abbots Langley. Almost four weeks to go. We're in the Hastings/Napier area (Hawke's Bay) tonight and tomorrow, then headed for Lake Taupo, Rotorua, the Coromandel (Auckland's fun retreat), then Auckland itself. The trip so far has been light on Maori culture, which we'll rectify in Rotorua.

It's hard to be away from home through great events like a change of Norwich manager, but we're coping...

Hot hot hot

Sorry, but that's the way it is...

Having seen the weather forecast for Britain, I feel more sheepish than Steve in saying this - but it's been a real scorcher here. Perfect for our free day in Wellington, which we chose to spend at the Pasifika (their spelling) Festival. Taking place in one of Wellington's central parks, this was a set of exhibitions and performances from the various Polynesian island groups. A real festival of exotic flavours, bright colours, drum rythms, melodious songs - and extremely sensuous Polynesian dancing. Never realised I had such a fine appreciation for culture...

Wellington is nice - a manageable city centre, great waterfront, and full of fine words like 'esplanade'. But tomorrow we must be on our way, heading up to Hastings and the Hawkes Bay area for more U3A and more wine.

Now, I know some of you think this journey is all fun and games for us. I have to tell you that it's full of challenges. We have to be really careful to avoid sunburn, for instance. And each day is a series of dilemmas: do we have breakfast in the motorhome, or go to the gourmet cafe? Seafood or meat for dinner? And what kind of wine? The decisions go on and on.

At least Steve is getting used to some of the niceties of football - eg when Norwich draw after being ahead it's all gloom and despondency, but when they draw after being behind it's smiles and optimism. Simple really.

HELLO from WELLINGTON

We wake up to a beautiful day in Wellington. It's sort of shocking to be in a big city, but we managed to wend our way to the campsite yesterday after the ferry crossing and here we are ready for our next U3A encounter.

Karen Palmer of Wellington U3A put together a fantastic gathering of 16 for a 'pot luck' buffet lunch at her lovely home high overlooking the harbour - wonderful view, a challenge for the RV to get up there! As usual we talked U3A. A great group. Lin, everywhere we go, they love the U3A pins and magnifiers. Wish I had brought more bookmarks and a U3A News to show them. You can see from the picture we're having fun.

The rest of the afternoon we spent at Te Papa Tongarewa, the National Museum of New Zealand. Along with a great heritage exhibition of both the Moari community and the settlers history, a big attraction is the giant squid that is preserved and on show. Something right out of 2o,ooo Leagues Under the Sea and scary. You would not want to meet up with it ... ever. In fact this is the only museum in the world that has one.

There's a concert in the Botanic Gardens tonight and I was hoping for classical or easy listening or even country and western, but instead it is pop - decided to give it a miss this time - must be getting old!

We decided to stay an extra day because tomorrow there is the 'Absolutely Positively Pasifika Festival' on at the waterfront Waitangi Park. Says there will be a kaleidoscope of Pacific island dance and song, traditional food and crafts. Can't wait.

PS The U3A group picture above includes Elizabeth Moles, Vivienne Rollo, David and Anke Atkins, Gaynor Stewart, Val Ferguson, Jane Page, Julia Sparks, our hostess Karen Palmer (front left), Michael and Joyce Foster, Rosemary and Stan Ralston, Bea Hamer, Lloyd and Joy Parkin. Can you picture me in the middle of everything?! (Picture, as usual, by official photographer Stew.)

PPS Mike: yes, we saw your note and will be sending an email to your friend. Don't think we'll be in her vicinity on our journey, though.

Sheep ahoy!

Steve reports on the inter-island crossing

There are several parts of this trip I've been dreading, but none more than today. Sheep are notoriously bad sea-travellers - in fact, I've heard we're often refrigerated for this kind of journey. Sounds strange, but I guess they know what they're doing.

Well, I was wrong to get my wool in a twist about it. We had smooth sailing, first through the Marlborough Sounds then the Cook Strait across to Wellington. I know Stew likes that Tasman, but he didn't even realise there was a gap between the islands so I'm not over-impressed.

So here we are in North Island - a new experience for me too. But I've heard some of the sheep here look almost exactly the same as in the South. Remarkable.

After the Marlborough wine tasting day, I know some of you are wondering whether I have a drink problem. Just to say that Stew's had a talk with me, man to sheep, and I think we're clear. I may give Hawkes Bay a miss.

That'll do for now. Baa til the next time.

It's a tough life

South Island complete

Some doubling-back today. From Motueka we returned to through Richmond and Nelson, but this time stuck to the north coast, ending in Picton for tomorrow's ferry. As usual, a couple of stops along the way. We never got to try Havelock's green mussels (next time, perhaps), but can recommend Pelorus Bridge for chicken & camembert pies and (as pictured) ice cream.

So that completes the South Island. We've driven a fraction under 2,000 miles; stayed at 13 campsites; and after heavy editing, saved just 600 photos. Lost count of breathtaking views (and dolphins). Beamer: of the 30 South Island scenic drives listed in the book you gave us for Christmas, we managed 25.

It's been a remarkably quick adjustment to this lifestyle, in part because New Zealand makes it so easy for travellers. Aside from the time difference, though, a number of things about being in the 'wrong' hemisphere remain a bit strange, eg Autumn means March-April, and you look for a home with a nice north-facing garden.

And I've cooked more dinners than in a year at home. Admittedly that's not actually saying much, but it's something to build on when we get home. In the meantime - North Island here we come...

Abel Tasman National Park

A great finish to the South Island

In the course of this trip, the group of people I've developed a special admiration for - apart from the inventors of the credit card - are the explorers like Abel Tasman and Captain Cook. Tasman discovered New Zealand in 1642, having literally journeyed into the unknown. Cook came a century or so later, using his brillant sea-faring and mapping skills to make sense of it. Impressive men, and more civilised than some of today's international adventurers.

The thing that used to astound me most about Cook was this. On returning from the hardships and deprivations of a round-the-world voyage, the first thing he did was: start planning the next one. Now I'm beginning to get a better understanding...

If Tasman was a special sort of bloke, he gave his name to a pretty special National Park which we visited today. You won't be surprised to hear that we opted for the coastal cruise rather than the inland trek, so we saw a stunning series of coves and beaches, with crystal-clear green water.

And, naturally, dolphins. Having scoured the world for them without success, we're now fighting them off.

Well, that's our last main stop in South Island - tomorrow we go to Picton in readiness for the inter-island crossing to Wellington. Meanwhile, nervously awaiting overnight news of Norwich v Southampton....

Haircuts, Motueka U3A and Beaches

Hi all, me again. Today it was our turn to get shorn. Yes, on a trip like this, these everyday things have to be seen to as well as the fun things. So, Stew off to the Barber Shop - complete with old-fashoned chair and a barber from Coventry, emigrated 40 years ago and still supports the team. I chose Bliss (the name seemed to bode well!) and was very pleased with the outcome.

We met Motueka U3A's merry 6 at Muses Cafe attached to the town's museum at 11 for coffee. It was 'Muffin Monday' so we all had free muffins as well. What a great idea - maybe U3As everywhere should have a 'muffin day' every month! Again we talked U3A and while their U3A is quite small, they approach their study groups much as we do - self-help on the topics their members want to study. Fun to hear of groups that we in SW Herts don't have . . . yet: geology, civilizations, geography. And of course the UK connections: Margot was married in St Albans!

Pictured from left to right: Cliff Bacon, Trish Huckle, Margot Grace, Malcolm Garrett (who organised the meeting), Barb, Gloria and Fred Wyatt.

Then, all too soon, it was on our way. This time to Kaiteriteri just 7 miles up the road, though with the twists and turns it took a half hour to get there - typical. But worth it. A beautiful golden beach full of holidaymakers. Had the best hamburger and great potato wedges with sour cream and sweet chili sauce - to our taste an unlikely combination, but delicious. So bliss in the hair and bliss on the beach - how perfect is that?

Note to 'Twilight' fans - found the first consignment of the paperback of 'Breaking Dawn' and am devouring it. Just can't figure out how she will resolve everything.

On the move

Back to sobriety and travelling

With the animals recovering from yesterday's excesses (more below), we're back to the serious journey. Further north from Blenheim today, including our first sight of the Marlborough Sounds - a reminder that our time in South Island is drawing to a close. But a left turn before that, taking us through Havelock ("the green mussel capital of the world"), the arts and shopping centre Nelson, Motueka (where we're now camped and will have another U3A encounter tomrrow) then some kind of tour of Abel Tasman National Park. Remember him? We'll retrace some of those steps on our way to Picton on Wednesday, for the ferry on Thursday to the North Island.

Meanwhile, I have to report an issue of crowding. Not outside the motorhome - where quite the opposite is true - but inside. Whenever we've seen a significant new animal on our travels over the years, we've generally bought a soft toy version of that animal. Not a problem on most trips, but we didn't quite take account of the number of animals specific to the southern hemisphere (blue penguin, sperm whale, dusky dolphin etc) - not to mention the sheep. Good thing the Moa is extinct...

Further afield, some (more) good news from the US. Our goddaughter Emily, studying Performing Arts at Syracuse University, just received her first professional review, for her role as Katisha in The Mikado. And it was a good one - well done, Em.

While we're not mentioning the sheep, Steve sends his thanks for the sympathetic comments (if that's what they were) yesterday. He's still groggy, but expects to be back on his hooves shortly. In the meantime he has a message for Lamb Chop: love your pedigree and style - but please give us more clues to your identity!

A day at the wineries

Despite warnings, I'm afraid Steve may have overdone it with the Sauvignon Blanc.

Or the Riesling. Or the Pinot Gris, or the Gewurztraminer. Understandable, given the generous tastings at a variety of exceptional wineries we toured today. Some of these wine producers are already well-known; others ought to be. For those with special interest, we visited Lawson's Dry Hills, Wither Hills, Villa Maria, Bladen and Herzog. All outstanding.

We bought various bottles, which I'm afraid will be consumed along our journey, plus a case to be delivered to Abbots Langley.

We're all now retiring to sleep it off. We're travelling somewhere tomorrow - who cares where?

Blenheim and another U3A encounter

Our U3A encounters have been such a pleasure. Here in Blenheim, Charles and Jan Riley presented us with afternoon tea in their garden on a perfect Summer's day. We were joined by Doug and Joyce Stafford, and Gavin and Elisabeth Kerr for great U3A exchanges. Their U3A is so much like SW Herts, with the ethos of self-help and shared learning in their study groups.

Apparently they have TWO wine appreciation groups, appropriate as we're now in the famous Marlborough wine-producing region. Many of you will have heard of Cloudy Bay - tomorrow we'll visit a variety of wineries and will regale you with stories (if we're still capable!). Stew is already planning a new study group, and our Blenheim U3A friends will be a welcome support - from afar, or even better if they come to our shores.

Pictured left to right: Doug & Joyce, Barb, Charles & Jan, Elizabeth & Gavin.

How did we get here? An easy drive today, due north - as much of our travel will be over the next two weeks - from Kaikoura to Blenheim. But another of those drives where you want to keep stopping to take pictures. The shining Pacific to our right, the colour of the Caribbean; constantly-changing mountains to our left. And for much of the time, not another car in sight.

Dolphins, dolphins everywhere

Time to re-write the book of Barb & Stew's dolphin experience

The most extraordinary day yet of an extraordinary journey. We'd have been happy to see a handful of dolphins - instead, we found ourselves for two hours in the midst of a pod of 200. Not only that, they clearly decided to make up for their cousins' previous reticence with us and put on a five-star show: jumping, twisting, somersaults and backflips. I'm sure I saw a triple Axel in there somewhere.

I AM NOT MAKING THIS UP (except the triple Axel).

While this was great for spectators, I'd already decided that these dolphins weren't going to get away and had signed up to swim from the boat. So another new experience - distinctly up close and personal, swimming in the middle of the dolphins. These Dusky dolphins are absolutely wild and natural, which made it truly wonderful and memorable: being accepted by these beautiful creatures (which are about the same size as us) in their own realm. A privilege indeed.

A very different direction next - up to Blenheim, for another U3A visit and a tour of the famous wineries of Marlborough. We'll let someone else do the driving for that one.

Princes of land and sea

Two thank-yous to begin today. First, to everyone who's commented on the blog: you keep us informed and amused, and it's a welcome link to home and friends. Second, special thanks to Holly for her input yesterday. This blog has no pretensions beyond a bit of light entertainment for winter days, but it's good to remind ourselves of bigger things, especially when - like Obama - they represent a beacon in turbulent times.

So, to the whales. A great trip out this morning in perfect conditions and - as you may have figured out from the picture - success in our quest. Two close sightings of a sperm whale, the largest and most impressive of the Kaikoura residents. Good that they're placid creatures, since our 50-foot boat was shorter, and considerably lighter, than the whale.

Each individual whale is known to the researchers; this one's name is Tiaki. Personally I'd have gone for Charles, since this is clearly a prince of whales. Sorry.

We then returned for a whale-like lunch of delicious blue cod (must recommend that to Delia when we get back). I guess the whale might have passed on the chips and salad, not to mention dessert.

Ever the optimists, we're booked on a specific trip tomorrow to see dolphins. But are they ready to see us?

Another U3A encounter - plus a word from Steve

What a great addition to this journey our U3A encounters are proving. This morning at 11am at the entrance to the Cathedral in Cathedral Square, Christchurch, we met Lee Morgan and Liz Taylor - all planned by email! We had coffee and talked U3A for two hours - all about theirs and ours. Although they do not have as many study groups as we tend to have, it is more on the shared-learning basis than University-based lectures that we found in the Dunedin U3A. As you can start to see, each U3A here is autonomous and sorts out what suits it best. Our next U3A meet-up is in Blenheim in a few days.

So here we are in Kaikoura and anticipating whale watching. I think Stew has been looking forward to this as far back as Greymouth and you have to go pretty far back on this blog to see how long ago that was!

However, I am thinking mostly of the inauguation of Obama. Lots of publicity of it here in the few snatches of TV that we see (mainly CNN last night in Christchurch). Sadly I will miss the speech live. It is actually the 20th today, here. The speech will be at 6am tomorrow, our time (and no CNN at the campsite). Oh well, I'm sure there will be repeats. I did get the Time special inauguation preview edition with his picture on the front. And I'm sure my American History study group will fill me in when I get back.

Steve here. Just to clarify a couple of things. First, I'm not against football (especially since it's back in vogue here, at least til the next Norwich game). I particularly admired that Chelsea manager Jose Merino. Second, the Inauguration. I'm known as a dyed-in-the-wool conservative, but you can't help being impressed by Baa-rak Obama.

PS I guess there's hope for us all, then!

Where we began

...back in Christchurch, heading north

A quick visit to Christchurch - and a hotel. Thought we'd treat ourselves to a night of home comforts before a meeting with local U3A people in the morning. But what do you do with all this space?

We've now driven 2,300 kilometers (around 1,500 miles), covering the centre and south of the South Island. Already plenty to reflect on, but no time for that yet. Next we go north, first to one of my treats: whale watching at Kaikoura. Also home to dolphins (they claim). Then it will be further north to the wineries of Marlborough and arts of Nelson, eventually taking the ferry on 29 Jan to the next adventure on North Island.

Stand by for new tales (and whale tails).

Distant cheers

Tonight, a simple, non-informative and self-indulgent blog.

What do you mean, 'what's new?'

It's to share the celebrations reverberating around the motorhome at the great news from 12,000 miles away: Norwich 4 Barnsley 0.

We had a fine day today, being shown the sights of the Waitaki valley by Libby McCone (the U3A person we met in Queenstown), then tea with Libby and her husband Jim. Great New Zealand hospitality. All this will put a spring in the step as we embark on a big week - a return to Christchurch, followed by Kaikoura for whale-watching and more. Watch this blog!

Penguins and other Beasts

In search of the yellow and blue

Another first for us last night - the chance of seeing penguins in the wild. No doubt you're well versed in the seventeen species of penguin; there are two in New Zealand, and we went in search of both.

First, the rare yellow-eyed penguin. We lined up (in wind and rain) on a clifftop in the hope of seeing them come onto the beach and make their way up the cliff to their nests. It was worth getting wet - saw two come out of the water, another on its nest in the bushes, then another sauntered up the cliff path and obliged us for photos (see above).

Then on to the smaller but more numerous blue penguins. This time a rocky shoreline where they come ashore in groups ('rafts') for safety, clambering onto the rocks (or rather, allowing themselves to be hurled onto them), climbing to safety, then crossing the road and moving to their nests in the bushes. A remarkable sight, and hugely entertaining.

I haven't said much recently about life with our motorhome, the Beast. Actually, we should re-name it; my big fears have been confounded. I fretted enormously about being able to drive the thing, and dealing with the chemical toilet; both have so far been pretty trouble-free (famous last words). The campsites are less spacious but better-equipped than expected (excellent showers etc), and it's kind of fun preparing meals for ourselves. We always have the get-out of going to a hotel, but haven't so far felt the need.

All in all, the Beast has clearly enhanced rather than detracted from the holiday.

A balancing act

I guess the italics are my signature now - that's Barb speaking.

With all the gorgeous scenery, the seascapes, mountains and gorges, I decided we needed a little balance in this journey with a visit to 'Olveston', the Theomin family's historic Dunedin home this morning.

The quotation on David Theomin's personal book plate, 'Let things be done shipshape and Bristol fashion' is ever present as you view his home built between 1904-06. As the brochure says, it is a masterpiece of modernity featuring central heating, an in-house telephone system, a shower and even heated towel rails!

The Theomins had two children, Edward who died in 1928 and Dorothy who died in 1966. It was Dorothy who bequeathed the house and all its contents to Dunedin town and eventually to a Trust who took it over. You walk in to see their house as if they had only stepped out for a moment. Every little thing just as it was. Absolutely fascinating. And I have to say a real treat.

However, our time was up in Dunedin, so on the road again. This time headed for Oamaru.

Along the way we stopped at Shag Point ( I know Steve would have something to say about that name, but I couldn't possibly comment). The draw was a colony of fur seals - lots of them on a craggy outcrop on rock with crashing waves to add drama. We watched as the young frolicked and the oldsters found the perfect spot for sleeping. And after lunch of sandwiches, Pringles and juice, I have to say this 'oldster' also took a short nap with a warm breeze wafting through the windows and the sound of waves and birds a lulling song.

Our next stop were the boulders at Moeraki. A weird thing you would think to stop for, but these boulders, strewn along the seashore below cliffs are perfectly round! And that is weird. There have been many explations for them, none proven however. They sort of look like huge billiard balls, half a tall as me, just waiting for some giant to picked them up for the next game - maybe at night when no one is watching.

Well, here we are in Oamaru - early for us at 4pm. We've just checked in at the campsite and booked to see the penguins tonight as they arrive back on shore - takes about an hour to see them all come in, so more stories tomorrow sports fans!

Speaking of sports, things always happen when we go away - how about Norwich then sacking Glenn Roeder! Hope springs eternal.

Sleep well, we will.

A tale of three oceans

...and albatrosses really exist

Onto our third ocean in five days. At the start of the week we looked west into the Tasman Sea; yesterday south into the Southern Ocean; today east into the Pacific. In truth they all look pretty similar, but I like the mythical quality of the idea.

They're all reminiscent of the North Sea in terms of temperature (bracing), but not in any other respect. They're the way oceans ought to be: wild, pure and blue. The purity accounts for the range of wildlife - penguins, seals, dolphins (allegedly) and more.

The 'more' also covers seabirds, including the albatross. From our base in Dunedin, we drove out on the Otago Peninsular this morning and visited the world's only mainland albatross nesting site. Fascinating, though the albatrosses clearly prefer colder and windier weather.

Something completely different this afternoon - a great train trip ito the mountains of the interior. NB Both of today's activities were recommmended to us by friends (including some of you) at home - many thanks.

On up to Oamaru tomorrow, and a chance to see the penguins close-up. Our whale-spotting record is as good as our dolphin record is poor; we'll see where penguins fit in.

Steve's update

Sheep's blog, 14 January 2009

Now I understand some of you are suffering fom sheep deprivation, so here's the latest from me.

First, I really appreciate the new followers from my first blog - actually, I'm a bit of a follower myself - but tell me more about yourselves, Baa-Baa and Lamb Chop!

To be honest, it hasn't been an easy week. First, sport. I can't tell you the gloom that fills the RV when they look for news about Norwich - shocking. I used to be a football fan myself, but I went off it when they started talking so much about Butcher - then, of course, Shearer.

The travel has been OK, though we haven't seen many sheep. Just 173,804 at my last count (I may have dozed off once or twice in there).

The other animals here talk about doing blogs. Henry the Lion seems keen, but says he doesn't yet have enough roar material.

Now arrived at Dunedin, so we've finished the south coast. It ought to be Duneatin' for Stew and Barb, but no sign of that yet.

I just told Stew he shouldn't take Norwich so serously. I think he told me to blog off, so I'd better go.

Bye-ee.

Time to catch your breath!

You know it is time for a little reflection when you can't remember what day it is, the date or where you were yesterday! Yes, it is Barb here just catching up. The campsite here in Invercargill is quiet, we have just had Stew's delicious spaghetti and all is well in the world. In fact, having been used to watching CNN constantly for every nuance of news at home, here we catch a headline on the BBC website and that's it! So you can really feel quite peaceful, sort of out of this world. Thus, not remembering the date etc.

Remember all the places we have been to here in New Zealand are places most holidaymakers spend a week or more enjoying, meanwhile we are off to the next treat down the road. So, today we ambled along the Southern Scenic Route and planned our catch-up day! We are staying at a series of campsites called Top Ten. Fabulous facilities - really great showers, areas to BBQ in, washing machines, cable internet connections, TV lounge - you get the picture. Today we tried out the washing machines and dryers.

But, first we discovered another Woolworths - hurray. Not quite Wegmans or Sainsburys, but getting there if you have been in the rainforests for the last few days. So of course we stocked up on English muffins, peanut butter and mince and wine for the spaghetti.

So, quite mellow, the washing up and the laundry done and ... yes, it is coming to me now, it is Tuesday where I am, the 13th of January and we have been away 19 days - amazing. Our blog can only give a glimpse of this wonderful journey.

PS. No picture again because the signal is not strong enough to download one onto the Blog, maybe tomorrow - we have lots we would have liked to show you. Also, we still cannot get emails on my U3A email address - don't know why, but in the meantime, please send emails to us on: stewart.lewis2@ntlworld.com we always can get them that way.

PPS Just when I was abandoning hope of the picture, here it is! And buoyed by the success, we've added pics to the Milford and Doubtful Sound blogs.

Sounds good

Just another regular day to report: breathtaking scenery, new experiences, fascinating knowledge.


This time in and around Doubtful Sound, another unspoilt wilderness. The whole area is, happily, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The fine weather allowed our boat to go out of the Sound into the Tasman Sea - letting us look left, where the next landfall is Antarctica, then turn round and see the view that faced Lieutenant James Cook (not a Captain then) in early 1770. Wary of the Sound's narrow channels and small islands, he rejected his colleagues' pleas to land and noted on his map 'Doubtful Harbour'. The name stuck.


There, who said this blog was just about sheep puns?


We kept up our luck with the weather, but also maintained a less enviable run. As one or two of you know, our dolphin-spotting record is not the best, and today was par for the course. There are dolphins in Doubtful Sound - no doubt about it - but they failed to appear today. Still, more chances later in the trip.


Tomorrow we bid a fond farewell to Fjordland and the Southern Alps, and head south-east to Invercargill. That will open the possibility of a trip to Stewart Island, depending on weather and our inclination. All this, and still wine, whales and beaches to come. (I really wanted to say wine, women and song - but maybe that can be arranged.)


Time I took a break from the blog - I'll let Barb and Steve fight for tomorrow's slot. Best wishes (and thanks for the comments), Stew.

Milford Sound

Pure nature in Fjordland



An early start today. OK, I confess it's a bit different getting up for the coach to Milford (followed by cruise) than for the 7.23 to Euston (followed by Northern Line). This retirement thing is kind of fun, at least until the credit card bills come in.



Just the drive to Milford is scenic enough - 100 photos before we even arrived at the Sound. Towering mountains, pure crystal-green streams and steaming waterfalls, each better than the last. Then the weather. It's changeable in this part of New Zealand - as you may have figured out - and wetter to the west of the mountains: Milford gets 300 inches of rain a year, that's an average of nearly an inch a day. So we weren't counting on full sunshine today...but that's exactly what we got. Glorious.



Milford Sound has a huge and deserved reputation. It's one of those places which, despite hundreds of visitors, maintains a pristine sense of nature (in that sense, reminiscent of Alaska). It's actually a fjord rather than a Sound - come on, we covered this in 4th Form Geography - carved by glaciers and now featuring dramatic walls of forest and rock rising straight from the water. And you can get wet when the boat sails in close to the waterfalls (very wet).



The road to and from Milford is carefully crafted between the mountains, except for the bit where they said 'what the hell', and hacked and blasted a tunnel through three-quarters of a mile of granite. (For avid readers and Simpsons fans, it's the Homer Tunnel.) The drive back would have been quicker if we hadn't run into a flock of sheep - one hazard you don't normally have to worry about on the M25.



Doubtful Sound tomorrow - more beauty, plus dolphins (apparently). Off now to re-charge the camera batteries, and our own. Sorry we can't upload pictures here.



PS Steve just wants to let his fans know he's working on his next message. Watch the next couple of days.

Another cheesy story

Queenstown to Te Anau, with diversions


A thoroughly pleasant day, a bit calmer after the dramatic swings of weather and activity in Queenstown. All exemplified by our first stop (or more accurately, detour) - Arrowtown, only 10 miles from Queenstown but a world away in pace and style. A good spot to reinforce our new ritual of mid-morning coffee and muffins.


Then to an LOTR (Lord Of The Rings) location, and the kind of impulse stop we now have the freedom to make -at a cheesery. I know, we'd never heard of one either, but it lived up to its name. We purchased (would you believe) some cheese, plus ingredients for my next pasta spectacular.


We're now 'hooked up' (ie gas and electricity connected) in the campsite at Te Anau - ready for tomorrow's big excursion to Milford Sound which is one of the world's famous beauty spots. Hard to shake off an image of Milford Haven (which isn't) but I'm sure tomorrow will cure me of that.


Meanwhile, another Saturday night of going to bed not knowing how Norwich got on. This time difference thing is very disconcerting...

And now the one you've been waiting for...

The Shotover Jet (or, Wet Wet Wet)

NB This is the second post today - see Barb's note below about our U3A encounter.

This one is to report that the Shotover Jet was ... absolutlely brilliant. It almost didn't happen, as our morning slot was cancelled because of the rain (I didn't entirely follow the logic since this was a white-water ride where we were guaranteed to get wet, but never mind). We got an afternoon slot in the sunshine, and it was fantastic - especially the 360-degree turns in the rapids. Barb was a great sport, and it only took 20 minutes to prise her hands off the safety bar when we finished.

Great official pictures to show when we get home; this will have to do in the meantime.

On to Te Anau in the morning, for the highly-anticipated trips to the fjords Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound. Scenic wonders and dolphins promised (as well as homicidal sandflies). That's after my first attempts to empty the chemical toilet - will report anything that's appropriate for a family audience.

PS We're having great difficulty accessing Barb's U3A email. If you've sent us something, we may not be able to pick it up until we're back in Christchurch on 20 Jan. In case of anything urgent, please re-send to stewart.lewis2@ntlworld.com (which we can pick up more easily).