A room with a view

'Russell' probably has a different connotation for everyone, depending on the individual(s) of that name who've been significant to us.

Now we have another set to add. We've arrived at 'Romantic Russell' in the Bay of Islands, and our campsite certainly helps it live up to its billing. Perched above the town, we have a panoramic view out across the bay - and a quiet beach ten minutes the other way. Not a bad spot for Barb's birthday tomorrow.

In the New Zealand context, Russell has two distinctive connotations: history and scenery. It was the cradle of colonial New Zealand, and still has the oldest church (from 1836). Later in that century it became lawless and was christened - if that's the word - 'the Hell-hole of the Pacific'. For better or worse it's calmed down a bit since then, and now caters to the gentler end of the tourist market (ie us). Across the bay also lies the place we'll visit tomorrow - Waitangi, the scene of the 1840 treaty between the Maori and settlers. Whatever one's view of its motivations and consequences, it is hugely significant to the development of New Zealand and has repercussions to the present day.

We drove pretty determinedly to get here, stopping only for breakfast at the New Zealand Honey Centre. Otherwise we ignored distractions, even portentious signs such as LAST CHEESE FOR MILES (it was true).

Bay of Islands is also known for its eating and beautiful scenery. We'll try to do justice to both over the next couple of days.